Saturday, January 24, 2015

NZ in the Rain Part 2

Happy Birthday to me,
Happy Birthday to me,
Rainy kayaking in N. Z.,
Happy Birthday to me.

And I wouldn't have had it any other way.

This is Milford Sound.

The heart of Fiordland (not spelled Fjordland because they were worried the New Zealands would pronounce the "j"). The southwestern corner of New Zealand is almost inaccessible by road because of the fiords carved out by glaciers. Milford sound is the most touristy because you can get there by a road, though a tunnel in a mountain, that is closed for 4 days at a time in the winter because of avalanches.

The best way to see it is on the water. The best way to get on the water is via kayak. I knew that's what I wanted to do for my birthday.

But just like on the morning of our Tongariro crossing, I woke up at 5am to the sound of rain falling. Over the rivers and through the tunnel we winded our way to Milford.
 
 Luckily they had the gear to kit us out in the perfect summer kayaking outfits. Rain jacket, neoprene skirt, fleece jack, wool long underwear (tops and bottoms) and yes Amy, bathing suits underneath it all.
Turns out that despite the inability to see across the sound (actually a fiord but someone named it incorrectly and they couldn't be bothered to rename it) or the tour boats in the channel, rainy days (which are most of the days) are the best way to see Milford Sound. There are only two permanent waterfalls. When it rains, there can be hundreds coming down the granite cliffs, but the majority dry up within two hours after the rain. The granite cliffs are so steep that the forest, clinging on to the moss, falls off in tree avalanches!

The biggest of the waterfalls is Lady Bowen Falls which provides electricity and water that requires no filtering for the village of Milford. And just to put it into perspective, the height of Niagra Falls is 51 meters while the height of Lady Bowen Falls is 162 meters.
(It's much bigger up close!)

 

After three hours paddling around in the fog, it was time to dry off with the little shed's super power gas heater (I need one!) and head back to Te Anu. As we left the park, once again, the fog began to lift.

Due to the constant rain and my lack of waterproof camera, I only got to take limited pictures, but the experience as unforgettable.This is one birthday I will not forget any time soon.

How will I top it next year...?


PS. And back on dry land I was enveloped by a barrage of birthday messages and love to warm me up and thaw me out. A million thanks to all my friends and family from snow covered 40 degree Fahrenheit New England to sweltering 40 degree Celsius Australia.


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