Saturday, June 21, 2014

Do You Believe in Ghosts?

Australians, and particularly Western Australians love to quarantine things. And it's not surprising. If I had an isolated continent with thousands of species of plants and animals that can't be found anywhere else in the world, I'd want to keep it that way. Forget a banana in your carry-on and the sniffer dogs will be on you (good one Tom). Try to bring your pet to Australia? Wait 9 months. Oh, and even traveling within Australia can be tricky. Make sure you bin (throw away) all fruits and vegetables, honey, and dirt (because everyone travels with bags of dirt) when traveling into Western Australia domestically. 

 

Perth's original quarantine station was near Fremantle, at Woodman Point. It was almost too close to Fremantle, that it as kept a secret for fear that the public would worry about the afternoon winds bringing disastorous plagues to downtown Freo. 
 

As the first port of call for visiting ships, it was open until 1979 and saw the bubonic plague, smallpox, and the Spanish flu. Today, it is a recreation center for school groups and scouts to spend the night (yes, little children sleep there).

It's also happens to be one of the most haunted places in Perth. And psychic medium, Rebecca Millman, leads ghost tours of the peninsula with a haunting past.

 The mystery started before we even got inside the grounds. We all met outside the gate, on a deserted road, in the dark, until she arrived to let us in. Once inside, she explained to us how we were unlikely to "see ghosts", as it takes a lot of energy for spirits to appear. We were more likely to feel things out of the ordinary and see things in photos we took. 

The first building we went into was the old shower block where we were left to wander around in the dark with our flashlights (or should I say torches?). This was the first stop for immigrants, and you can imagine it was quite traumatic for those who had been in the concentration camps of World War II and seen the heinous murder in shower blocks like this.

We wandered through the boarding halls (which are now where the kids sleep!), armed with ghost finding tools and taking pictures to see if we saw anything of the paranormal. She also told us we could talk to the spirits if we wanted, but that was a bit too much for me.

We went into the old hospital, where we had a seance. The group of about 30 of us sat in a circle, and sang songs to "raise the vibrations". Every time we stopped, she would say, "Did you hear that?" Yes, I heard creaks, and whistles, and knocks. But isn't that what you hear in an old building? Either way, it was creepy sitting in the dark, listening into the silent for something I did or didn't want to hear, in a building where many people's dreams of coming to a new country ended in illness. 

Campers also camp in the hospital. She told us the story of one scout troop that after all the children had left, they saw a little boy running in circles around the building. They called all the parents, but every one had returned home. Rebecca told us that he had lost both of his parents. Traumatic events like this can leave residual paranormal activity, where a traumatic moment is imprinted in time.


The creepiest place we went was the crematorium and morgue. It's estimated that over 200 people died at this station. If you look closely, you can see little white dots, which many people call ghost orbs. Just Google "ghost orbs" and see what the pictures look like. I'm not sure what they are. I'm sure they can be explained by reflections of dust with the flash. But they didn't show up in any of my other pictures...
The creepy dude on our tour crawled into the oven.

We didn't have any overwhelmingly other worldly experiences. And I'm not sure I believe ghosts. But it did open my mind to the possibility, if even for the night.

Do you believe in ghosts...?

Friday, June 13, 2014

Let's Go to the Movies, Aussie Style

Before "winter" came to Perth, there was a plethora of outdoor movies. I have come across outdoor movies on Saturday nights in the park back home. I've been to a couple drive-ins. Our high school even set up a drive-in in the back parking lot (which was before we could drive, so thanks mom for dropping us off in the mini-van!). But during the summer, there are at least four or more "theaters" that play an outdoor movie every night of the week. Yes, not just Saturday nights. EVERY night. Rent a bean bag, bring a picnic basket, and you've got the perfect summer night. I realized that it's the perfect thing for Perth, because it doesn't rain in the summer. Like, never. They don't get rained or fogged out (remember watching Alaska, Mom and Dad? I still don't know what happened in the end). 

I waited all summer to find someone to go with. And then I was rowing, which basically destroyed my weekday night social calendar. But I couldn't let the season go by without going to the outdoor cinema. So I invited myself along with my favorite Perth-ites to the movies. 
 
And it wasn't just any outdoor cinema, it was a rooftop cinema. Set up for the season on the top of a Northbridge parking garage. One that had popcorn, snacks, artificial green turf, pink flamingoes, palm trees, plastic baskets hung up as lanterns, and a view of the illuminated skyline as the backdrop. It was awesome.
 


And what did we see? Only one of the greatest Disney movies of all time (sorry Frozen).

Nants ingonyama bagithi Baba
(Which after screeching hundreds of times, I just looked up means "Here comes a lion, Father" in zulu).

And watching a favorite from our childhood, we joined Timon, Pumbaa, and Simba looking up to see the sparkly dots that are the West Australian stars. Or big balls of gas. Or fireflies.

Monday, June 9, 2014

Keep Wandering

The most remarkable thing in Western Australia has been the vast nothingness. The monotony is impressive. Up to Broome, we drove on straight roads that had no intersections, buildings, or stops for over 100 kilometres. We passed so few cars that our driver could and did wave at each one. Sitting in the van, instead of being lulled to sleep by the sunlight, rhythmic hum of the engine and the unchangeable landscape passing, I was invigorated by the opportunity to see this remarkable country.


It was a quintessential Australian road trip.
We stopped for kilometre long trains.

And passed hundreds of iconic Australian road trains.


We stopped at dusty roadhouses.

 
 
 
And slept in swags at dusty roadhouse. (Complete with a roadhouse meal of sausage rolls, hamburgers, pies, and other assorted fried foods).
 
We rambled along some of the worlds most beautiful beaches.

And through the bush of the outback.

All the while, wandering around corners, over hills, through valleys, and towards the horizon to see what was next.
 



I've now covered over 5,000 kilometres on my two tours, almost the entire coast of Western Australia (and that doesn't include a trip back from Broome). This is greater than the distance across the United States from Ledyard, Connecticut to San Francisco, California.
But it's only ONE state.
And there is A LOT LESS in between.

But I have so much more to see, thus onward I go.
I keep on wandering.
 
 

Sunday, June 1, 2014

The Reason I Went to Broome


Where's your favorite place?

I've asked a few people that since moving here, each time having to rearrange my prioritized list of the places I have to visit before I leave and those I want to visit. In two separate conversations, two well-trusted Perth-ites, have said with little hesitation, Karijini. That was all I needed. Karinjini is why I booked the trip to Broome. I didn't look it up first. Hadn't seen any pictures. Didn't really know what was there besides some waterfalls. But I was going.

Karijini is a national park in the Pilbara region of northern Western Australia. The country side is red dirt (because of the iron) hills with yellow grass. We camped in eco-tents that provided a base for sunrise jogs down the dirt road.

 



This region is covered with thousands of these termite mounds.

But what Karijini is really known for are the gorges.

You can look at the gorges from above, or you can go down in the gorge. Guess what we did? This was no Disney World or typical, park ranger covered American National Park.

We climbed down rocks.

We scooted across ledges.

We spider climb between crevices...

 And then the fun started...

We waded through water...

That got deeper...


And deeper....

And then we were swimming.

I must say that hiking and swimming in a bikini and hiking shoes was a new experience for me, but the views were worth it.

Joffre Gorge


 Kermit's Pool in Hancock Gorge

 Handrail Pool in Weano Gorge

 And the serene Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool in Dales Gorge, which was perfect for a relaxing swim.
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Down in the gorges and on top of the hills, there was plenty of time for reflection.

Many thanks to Catherine and Bryanna for sharing pictures from their waterproof cameras as we swam to the bottom of the gorges.