Monday, September 29, 2014

In Search of the Quintessential Aussie Pub

There are all kinds of pubs in Australia. But the country pub is a staple. And they are much more than a pub. They serve as restaurants, water holes, betting agents, locations for town meetings, and hotels with accommodation. There are road house taverns, outback pubs, and country town pubs complete with one of the most iconic features: wrap around balconies. But it's not just about what's on the outside. What else makes the quintessential pub? Of course a cool Swan or XXXX after a hot, dry day in in the bush helps, but it's much more than the beer. Mallee roots in the fireplace, a jukebox in the corner, a TAB to place your horse racing bets (Australians DO love to bet), a pool table or darts for entertainment, authentic clientele (may or may not have teeth) and friendly bar staff.
 And even better if there are fireplaces in the hotel rooms. Even if you can't light them.

 Jukebox, pool table, AFL grand final event on the chalkboard, picture of some Aussie blokes, and an Akubra (Aussie hat equivalent to a Stetson) wearing Aussie in the middle of it all.

I know this sounds very close to what makes any dive bar your favorite local joint, imagine that with an Aussie flair. Kids running around without shoes, blokes yammering about horse racing and saying "G'day" "mate" and "ta", and Jimmy Barnes blaring over it all.

I've been in a few pubs since I've been here, but I always forget the last one before going to the next one, which makes it difficult to compare. On a winding holiday jaunt through Western Australia's wheat belt, southern coast, and outback I stopped in the social center of many towns to see (and smell) the welcoming, individual character of each pub with most of them dating back to the early 1900's. And how did they all rate? On a score from 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest...

Gibson Soak Hotel-5.5
 Just outside of the holiday haven of Esperance, this hotel lacked in indoor amenities, but recovered some ground with a huge tree out front and a beautiful garden out back.

Castle Hotel (York)-6.25
Granted it was a cold and rainy day, but they had lost the remote for the jukebox, and didn't have any of that warm, friendly, Aussie characters. But there was one table of old men and one table of old women having some time of meeting.

Club Hotel (Southern Cross)-6.5

Great architecture and free jukebox (computer screen with playlist, way too modern) could make up for the unfriendly feel, and the toothless locals were just a little too rowdy.

Kulin Hotel-6.75
After searching for coffee, only to find the cafe owner waiting for a coffee machine repair from Perth, it was decided to go into the Kulin hotel instead. Complete with couches, a fancy "blue" room for fancy dinners, and a hall for "big" events".

Corrigin Hotel-7
Extra points for the bartender who filled us in on the boys from Esperance who had stopped in twice on their way too and from Perth for a footy weekend. Plus their Chicken Parma was pretty tasty.

Lake King Tavern-7
More of a roadhouse type feel, maybe just because it was on a pile of dirt at a highway intersection. The cozy atmosphere and sunny ambiance helped this roadside oasis to sell out all it's rooms for the Tuesday night.

Grass Patch Tavern-6.5
This tiny roadside tavern even had the local mail slots. There was chalk to entertain the kiddies (the owners kids happened to be home from school), a rustic pool table for the adults, and plenty of tradie, truckie and farmer charm. Plus what an awesome and honest name for a town: Grass Patch.

Salmon Gums Hotel-7.5
The mallee root was burning, despite the low number of patrons. Apparently the place was packed the night before with all the farmers in after their field walks. But the owner was friendly and chatted about the renovations she's made since buying it 19 months ago. She moved to Salmon Gums from Perth's large suburb of Mandurah and bragged about the silence (the population of Salmon Gums is about 40), despite the chilly winter days and the summer day when it was 52 degree days sitting out back of the pub (that's 125in Fahrenheit!).

Denver City Hotel (Coolgardie)-8
 Despite being confused about being in Australia and not Colorado, this gold mining town pub (one of two remaining from the original 23 pubs) still manages to make a living with the locals and tourists. Not to mention the owner had a record player in addition to a jukebox which she played some old country records on.

Port Hotel (Hopetoun)-8
An outback pub on the ocean? Yes please! Nathalie the owner was wary we'd be overwhelmed by their full house for Chase the Ace that night. Chase the Ace (or joker) is a weekly pub game. For each drink you buy, you get a raffle ticket. Then, one ticket is drawn. The owner of that ticket gets to draw a card from a deck of cards and if it's the Ace of Diamonds, they win the jackpot. Each week, the deck is down by one more card (as they're not replaced) and the lucky ticket holder's chances improve. And each week the jackpot gets higher. At the Port Hotel, the jackpot had gotten up to over $5,000 with only 4 more cards to go. So you could imagine everyone in that little town, young and old, were out getting their fair chance to Chase the Ace. No, I didn't win :( And neither did the lucky ticket holder. I wonder if someone will win it this week...

And extra points for an ocean view!


Norseman Hotel-9
Now Norseman is in the middle of nowhere. It is on the edge of the outback and the gateway o the Nullabor, the long stretch of road across the desert to South Australia. And the Norseman Hotel epitomized the Australasian outback pub. Tradie's in their high-vis having an evening feed while watching the news (apparently watching the news in the pub is a thing to do), a friendly bartender telling us about the Goldfields festival the next day where you can enter a raffle to win a gold nugget, an old man playing country music on the jukebox and a corner room to step out onto the wraparound porch overlooking main street to top it off.

I must admit that I didn't even go into every pub I passed. There was the Palace Hotel, Newdegate Hotel, Brookton and Lake City Hotels that didn't even get their fair rating. Too many pubs and too little time. Maybe one day I'll find that perfect 10...

Saturday, September 20, 2014

Blue Collar Catwalk

Tradie: Any one with an occupation such as a plumber or electrician, that has a ute with a tray dog or a white van with PVC tubes attached to the top. Aussie abbreviation for tradesman.

Perth's Hottest Tradie: 96fm's promotional competition where Perth's finest have been nominated over the past few weeks and competed in a final pageant.
The last tradie was crowned in 2005 and they haven't gotten back around to holding it until this year. This weekend, 9 of Perth's hottest tradies strutted down the "Blue Collar Catwalk" (ironically it is also Perth's Fashion week this week) for their chance to be crowned with golden hard hat.

But these tradies had to have it all to win with scores in evening wear, swimwear, and even a talent. There were a variety of sparkys, chippys, and plumbers.
And even Phillip, an American!

But it wasn't all testosterone. There were 7 dudes and 2 chicks on the catwalk.

Sponsors outfitted the contestants, with the swimwear being provided by Budgie Smugglers. I'll leave you to guess what that is an Aussie word for... But they even provided the stars and strips version budgie smuggler for Phillip and one with $100 American bills, because it's all about the Benjamins!

Now you might wonder what kind of talents tradies have. They have all the ones you would expect in a pageant.

Dance...

Power lifting...
 
Lassoing...


Peeling an apple with a drill...

Everyone deserved a golden hammer or drill for being great sports and going all out. But there can be only one winner.
And the winner was...

Brendan! His talent leaved a little to be desired (he had his dog roll around, not my cup of tea), but he won the judges and crowd over with his charming personality.
 The prize was no box of screws though. Grand prize was $10,000!

And look, Google+ Photos even put it all together in a little nice Perth's Hottest tribute.

I must also note, that this was held in a brand new bar, that hasn't opened yet and isn't really even finished. But they have managed to get some of the artwork on the walls. Yankee stadium in Australia?


Wednesday, September 17, 2014

I Want S'more

You may remember that in my grocery store blog from when I first got here there were so many new and exciting foods. The things they have in Australia that aren't in your typical Connecticut, Maryland or South Carolina grocery store. Well, I still get excited going to the grocery store and seeing what I can find. Except now, I've discovered the things they DON'T have here that I used to find in plethora in any North American supermarket.

 Tootsie rolls. Best described as chocolate starbursts? The blue wrapper vanilla ones are my favorite.

Cool whip. That artificial, creamy stuff that some people love. Personally I don't like whipped cream so Cool whip doesn't do it for me, but I do use it for recipes (aka my Grandma Droz's frozen strawberry deliciousness or something close to it). When I asked two Australians if they have ever heard of it, I got a confused, "What?" Then I had to attempt to describe it which resulted in a trip to Wikipedia to which I discovered:

"Cool Whip is a brand of imitation whipped cream named a whipped topping by its manufacturer. It is used in North America as a dessert topping and in some no-bake pie recipes. It was originally described as "non-dairy" as it contained no cream or milk and no lactose; however, it did contain the milk derivative casein. In 2010 both skimmed milk and light cream were added to Original Cool Whip."


Root beer. Try explaining the flavor of root beer to someone who's never tried it. Australians may have never heard of root beer, but Dr Pepper is an international special next to IronBru.

And the number one things I haven't been able to find an equivalent for...graham crackers.

And yet, somehow, s'mores have become the trend in Perth restaurants. I heard of a restaurant that had a s'more dessert and I had to try it, if not to see what they were doing with the graham cracker situation. Perhaps they were importing them and I could bargain for one over priced box. After getting over the fact that they referred to them as a Canadian dessert (they are rumoured to have started in the Girl Scouts of America!), I figured I'd give them a go. I had been warned they weren't proper s'mores, but a dessert dish kinda all mushed together. Ok, I can handle a little culinary creative license. This is what I got. Can you spot the graham crackers?


If you could see them, you're blind. Because there were ZERO GRAHAM CRACKERS in these s'mores.

It was a yummy chocolate mousse thing, homemade toasted marshmallows (it's very difficult to find the proper campfire marshmallows, but they have small ones so I could make do)

I have tried to explain graham crackers to Australians, but there really is not equivalanet. So I went on a hunt (via Google) to find them. Surely, someone in Perth had to have them. I came across a blog that mentioned David Jones had an American section (albeit no graham crackers). David Jones is an upscale department store. Think fancy Macys or Sears. Well, as I discovered on a Saturday outing, their basement is a little gourmet cafe, with gourmet food shelves, which just happens to have an "American" section. Now what do you think they stock in their American section?

Can you find the price on these little cans of New England specialties and giant jar of pickles?
A $19 jar of pickles?!!!!!!!!!!!

I also found where Australia is keeping their entire supply of canned pumpkin.


But they did have one $9 bottle of corn syrup, which on more than one occasion I have needed for a recipe.


My one purchase? All utility, still-includes-trans fat (that's for you Bill, even if I know you don't read my blog) Bisquick. Biscuits, shortcake and pancakes here I come. But when I went in the next week to purchase another $8 box, it was gone! And replaced by a single box of Aunt Jamima pancake mix, spanish version. Oh well, my flour and baking soda are well stock, even if it requires a little extra effort and never turns out quite right.

 I am hoping that it is restocked randomly with each import. And maybe one day they'll have graham crackers. Until then, I'll have to cope with the five shelves of repeated hot sauces and vanilla.

Besides the random fancy-department-store American section, there are some "American" delicacies that can be found if you know where to look and happen to get a good day.  You never know where you may find things. The discount store may not only stock the random campfire marshmallow, but they've got fluff and a random assortment of poptarts (which they do carry a limited selection of in the regular store, but these are apparently the high sugar no good American flavours no one likes) Can I get a frosted Cherry please?

Woolworth's just started stocking Texas Pete sauce, which you can use (and need) to make buffalo sauce (another item not purchasable in Perth).

I once saw applesauce in a British Food section (but apparently it's not a regular item).
That little tiny sign that you can't see is the "British" section

And not only may you have to go on a hunt to find your favorite items, once you find the "Section" there may be only one or two options. It's no super Wal-mart. No choice of pretzel twists, pretzel minis, mustard preztles, honey wheat twists, sour dough nibblets, sourdough sticks. This is by far the largest selection I have seen of pretzels yet.

You're lucky to find one bottle of Ranch dressing. No homestyle, buttermilk, fat free, lite from Wishbone, Hidden Valley, Ken's, Kraft and your gourmet and generic store brands. I tried one, and it has not made it back on to my salad.

Now don't get me wrong. Even if I can't find some of my old favorites, that doesn't mean I haven't found new ones. Crumpets, dates, sweet chili sauce, and caramel are just some of my treats to tickle my taste buds.




Tuesday, September 9, 2014

525,600 Minutes

It has been one year since I arrived in Perth. Five hundred, twenty five thousand six hundred minutes. But how do you measure a year?

(*numbers are estimates)

91 blog posts

46,671 miles flown Perth, Rio, Manaus, Broome, and Sydney


3,114 miles of adventure bus tours


664 Perth sunrises and sunsets (I didn't actually "see" them all, but did witness a good majority of them)
 
440 (or there about) bicycle rides taken, with 5!!! flat tires (granted I did have a hole in my tire for the majority of the year)

185 cups of instant coffee and 57 cups of fancy espresso flat white, latte and cappucino coffees.

42 cards from the United States (thank you everyone for those surprises in my mailboxes)

20+ Western Australian beaches visited


 12 footy games watched (3 in Patterson's stadium)



8 nights in a swag

4 Aussie-isms mastered and many more not mastered. I've got "holiday", "lift", "reckon", and "uni"into every day speech. The rest I'm working on.

2 amazing, world-travelled coworkers who were willing to accept me, not get sick of me and introduce to all that is Perth (and make fun of my funny American words and phrases)

1 summer Birthday Celebrated

1/2 a jar of vegemite finished. Tip: LOTS of butter on toast and a tiniest bit of Vegemite

A LOT of friendly people from around the world met
(and a surprising number of Americans or American supporters)

Infinite number of times asked "Where are you from?" (or in the words of a 7 year-old, "You talk funny" or a 4 year-old, "What language do you speak?". AMERICA!

 Not enough calls home, emails to friends, Viber messages, letters and Skype calls with my favorite jumping bean niece

365 days of missing my family



And 0 regrets

Onward to another fabulous year...